THE VICENZAORO EXPERIENCE AT THE CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL LUXURY CONFERENCE (OMAN, 5-6 APRIL)
Matteo Marzotto, Executive Vice President of Italian Exhibition Group Spa (IEG), took the experience of VICENZAORO, one of the world's most authoritative trade shows for the international jewellery industry, to the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference, the prestigious event that gathers together global luxury's top players and influencers in a different country every year.
Held in Muscat, Oman on 5th and 6th April, as part of two days of conferences and in-depth talks on developments in global luxury, with the lively participation of authoritative personalities from the fashion, accessory, jewellery and communication worlds, Matteo Marzotto played a leading role on Thursday 6th April in a talk with Suzy Menkes, journalist and one of the most popular big names in global luxury as well as creator and manager of Condè Nast International Luxury Conference.
Executive Vice President Marzotto addressed an audience of over 500 delegates to present VICENZAORO, the International business hub for high-range jewellery, which manages to unite 2,800 brands and 54,000 international buyers from 131 different countries in its three annual editions - two in Vicenza and one in Dubai - and is also exported to top jewellery trade shows in the USA, China and India. Thanks to the VICENZAORO Dubai experience, which this year will be in its new guise as VOD - Dubai International Jewellery Show (15th-18th November 2017), the IEG Vice President was able to outline the differences, in jewellery world terms, between Europe and the Middle East, the geographical area which hosted this edition of Condé Nast International Luxury Conference.
“In recent years, VICENZAORO has known how to strengthen its own international profile," Matteo Marzotto said, "by increasingly promoting itself as an authoritative player in world gold and jewellery. Not only an attractive Market Place for the best brands and buyers on a global scale, but also, and above all, a Content Provider and privileged Observatory in which to discover new trends and market evolutions. We are happy to be able to put our acquired experience at the service of Condé Nast International Luxury Conference and share with the other participants our know-how, contents and reflections that we believe can help to interpret and understand how the future of such a dynamic sector as world jewellery will develop"
Italian Exhibition Group's presence at Condé Nast International Luxury Conference further enhances the international profile of the Italian trade show organizer and VICENZAORO.
AT VICENZAORO SEPTEMBER THE GENERAL MEETING OF MUJERES BRILLANTES
In September, VICENZAORO will be hosting the international meeting of “Mujeres Brillantes” (Brilliant Women), a group of about 500 businesswomen operating in the gold and jewellery sector that, although mainly from Latin America, also come from Turkey, Russia, Italy, Romania and Israel.
The “Mujeres Brillantes” mission is to help women in the jewellery and watch sector to consolidate their business by networking and sharing their own professionalism and experience. The “Mujeres Brillantes” chose Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) and the VICENZAORO platform due to their mutual vision of gender equality and the respect and attention paid to women at the head of jewellery companies.
The “Mujeres Brillantes” united into an association in 2016 during the second week of the diamond at the World Jewelry Hub, in order to share experiences and present themselves as a united group to the jewellery industry. They particularly noticed the need for targeted communication on the female world - the main receiver of jewellery products and precious stones - and for divulging a gender perspective within the jewellery sector.
“Our overall sensation is that the industry is too focussed on sales rather than on the actual buying experience or the interiorization of other elements," said Mujeres Brillantes President, Ali Pastorini. "As women, we instinctively understand that the act of buying ought to be a special and intimate moment that goes beyond a business transaction." More than a simple campaign, the intention of the group is to improve the marketing approach upstream and to offer a new look at the sector through a female eye.
The www.mubri.com website was generated with the same spirit - a channel designed to exchange experiences and, above all, to provide space and voice to women working within the jewellery sector so that they can express their opinions about problems and important questions concerning the gold and jewellery world. “We are a group that includes," says Pastorini, "not one that excludes. The YouTube channel, social networks, website and these international meetings aim to involve everyone and gather experiences, incentives and suggestions."
VENDORAFA: A UNIQUE STYLE BETWEEN TRADITION AND INNOVATION
Little masterpieces of jewellery able to unite the aesthetics of deeply rooted and territorial Italian savoir faire with a production process oriented towards the future.
Deeply rooted in Italy's leading gold district, Vendorafa set out on its journey in Valenza in 1951 as an artisan workshop for producing jewellery and gold products with the Valenza hallmark. Since the very beginning, its inclination towards craftsmanship excellence, translated into jewellery with an immediate aesthetic harmony, was evident. It is exactly that collaborative combination between design research and maximum quality that led to the assertion of a style that, through the years, has been the distinguishing mark of every collection. Going from artisan workshop to company happened quite naturally with the recognition of the company's exceptional expertise acquired in Italy as well as growing interest and continual collaboration with leading international brands for which Vendorafa exclusively designs and creates jewellery.
A passage that has also reflected positively on the company premises which have undergone a significant architectonic restructuring: the square-shaped structure, based on a project designed in 1968 by architect Ignazio Gardella (also cited in Volume II of De Agostini's Italian Encyclopaedia of Science) is a perfect example of a workshop specifically arranged so that the goldsmith can work in natural light as much as possible. The Valenza tradition, based on age-old craftsmanship and manual ability, has been flanked through the years by the need for constant updating, which the use of high technology machinery has allowed.
In this way, every item originates from a savoir faire, deeply rooted in the territory and a production process oriented towards the future: manual procedures - such as hammering, cutting and embossing – are accompanied by 3D surface modelling. The outcome is striking collections, with no temporal references and considerable visual impact, in which aesthetic research and the study of shapes are the fundamental starting point for giving each single jewellery item its own personality. References to architectonic elements, a play on geometrical inter-weavings and allusions to organic forms exalt the material essence of gold in all its multiple potentialities, also in combination with enamelling techniques or illuminated with precious stones. In this way, every item in every collection becomes a little masterpiece to be worn in the awareness of owning a unique piece of high added value.
Like the Dune collection, in which the soundness of tradition and the power of innovation come together in sculptural shapes, where the brightness of hammered gold, emphasized by mounted sapphires or diamonds, make them reminiscent of dunes shifting in the wind. Vendorafa is the expression of a unique style, the fruit of age-old Italian savoir faire.
GIOVANNI FERRARIS: THE ART OF BEING DIFFERENT
Made in Italy creations full of joie de vivre, romanticism, colour, originality and character, able to evoke emotions
Giovanni Ferraris, founded in 1985, is a watch and high-jewellery brand with a strong identity that invests constantly in experimentation, research and innovation in a blend between advanced technology and pure craftsmanship. Giovanni Ferraris takes nourishment from the deepest roots of Made in Italy jewellery production to generate creations that are full of joie de vivre, romanticism, colour and character.
Love for originality emerged from the very start when Giovanni Ferraris specialized in producing jewellery-watches. Over the years, he shifted his skills towards jewellery and dedicated himself to experimentation, technical research and formal innovation. Observing the workbenches where he learned his profession, which he left to manage the company, Giovanni Ferraris continues to claim his status as a genuine craftsman. His strength lies exactly in the smallness of the company, which allows it to produce everything in-house: from the prototype, to production, to stone selection and the final touch. All 100% Made in Italy.
Poetic, delicate, often bucolic, Giovanni Ferraris well knows how to narrate the magic of an item of high jewellery and can now be found as the interpreter of a new 'trend' in which experimentation lives amiably alongside tradition and the use of 'classic' materials. Essentiality, tradition and coloured diamonds are the key elements in the collection: unique, seductive and indescribable jewellery.
“My work starts from a classic idea of jewellery," Ferraris said. "I create and fashion items in gold and diamonds uniting them with unusually fascinating natural stones. Jewellery must be special in terms of the memory it evokes. And that's what I create: little emotions that bring joy to those able to capture them."
THE EASTER EGG TRADITION IN THE JEWELLER'S
When one thinks of an egg-jewel, the first thought goes to Fabergéeggs, imperial Russian jewels created relatively recently during the nineteenth century.
But the idea of decorating an egg so richly that it becomes an authentic jewel dates back to much earlier, to myths and legends linked to Easter that originate from very different cultures and times. In Pagan religions the egg was considered as a sacred symbol of spring and life. Easter was a celebration of fertility and re-birth, the re-awakening of nature after winter. The English word 'Easter' comes from Oestre, the Saxon goddess of spring and femininity, which was, in turn, based on the name of the goddess of fertility Ostara.
Eggs were a precious and vital food source for ancient cultures. Rich in nutrients, for this reason and for its smooth and perfect shape, it was considered as one of the miracles of nature and venerated as a symbol of abundance and fertility. The tradition of decorated Easter eggs, on the other hand, seems to date back to pre-historic culture in Ukraine where even today, decorating eggs is considered an authentic form of art. During Medieval times, the Easter egg almost disappeared because the Church wanted to replace Pagan cult items with Christian ideas of resurrection and re-birth. However, the people really loved the pagan tradition of eggs and, in the end, the Church relented and finally accepted the egg as a symbol of Easter. In the Victorian Age, it was Queen Victoria herself that allowed the egg to take its central role, including luxury versions in satin and lace with jewels inside, as a symbol to venerate and honour as a good omen. In the nineteenth century, the jewel-egg finally found its maximum expression in the masterpieces created by royal jeweller, Carl Fabergé, for Russian Tsars Alexander III and Nicolas II, as precious Easter gifts for their wives and mothers.
The first Fabergé egg was made in yellow gold with a white enamelled shell. It opened to reveal other precious jewels. After the Russian revolution, the Fabergé family was forced to flee from Russia. Since then, the Fabergé brand has been sold and has changed ownership a number of times. To date, the House of Fabergé has produced about 50 eggs, many of which can be admired in museums around the world.
RECORD SALES FOR EASTER
According to the annual NRF survey (National Retail Federation) carried out by Prosper Insights & Analytics, Easter spending should reach 18.4 billion dollars, +6% compared to last year's record figure of 17.3 billion dollars.
These figures mark a new trend compared to recent analysed years with an average outlay per person of 152 dollars, 4% more than last year's record of 146 dollars. "Easter falls later this year and most consumers have almost one extra month for buying things. Warmer weather also contributes to greater expenditure," said Matthew Shay, President and CEO of NRF. “We should find ourselves facing a very positive situation, where consumers are inclined to buy and retailers are well-disposed to make offers on all goods categories involving Easter. After food, which is expected to record spending of 5.8 billion dollars, clothing will be the second category with the highest growth, with spending at about 3.3 billion dollars (+ 9% compared to last year).”
58% of consumers will go to discount stores, 46% will shop in retail department stores while 26% will make their purchases at small local businesses. Moreover, on-line purchases will count for 27% compared to 21% last year. Easter thus confirms itself as a highly popular festivity that everyone celebrates, especially young families with children. The forecasts are good, all that's left to do is celebrate!
Italian Exhibition Group will be organizing OROAREZZO (6-9 May) and Gold Italy (21-23 October)
From Saturday 6th to Tuesday 9th May, 600 companies from the main jewellery districts will be gathering at Arezzo for OROAREZZO under the unique management of IEG.
Following the agreement with Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, Italian Exhibition Group, besides organizing the three editions of VICENZAORO (the January and September events in Vicenza and the November trade show in Dubai), will also be responsible for totally organizing OROAREZZO (6-9 May) and Gold Italy (21-23 October) in Arezzo, starting immediately from the coming editions. At OROAREZZO, from Saturday 6th to Tuesday 9th May, the sector's best 600 companies will be presenting their latest creations at the 38th International Gold, Silver and Jewellery Show. OROAREZZO places the very best of Made in Italy jewellery on display: goldware, costume jewellery, fine jewellery and stones, new trends, fashion models alongside technology, 3D, products and services for the industry. Rings, bracelets, earrings, all the very latest in gold and silver. The 2017 edition of the JEWEL'S DREAM contest will reveal the infinite forms of the bracelet, a timeless and essential item of jewellery that re-interprets itself as an icon of style.
With the added support of the Ministry of Economic Development, the agreement generates a trade show platform that represents the entire Italian gold and jewellery department and aims at the growth and international promotion of this high quality Made in Italy segment. Having one single interlocutor for Institutions, Associations, companies and traders will lead to a more effective way to develop a promotion and communication strategy on a national and international scale for the entire Italian gold district, concentrating and using resources and investments to the best advantage. Italian Exhibition Group will continue to characterize and valorise each individual Show and their bond with the territory but with considerable focus on systemization. The aim is to strengthen the department and increase business opportunities for exhibitors by stimulating the domestic market and favouring the presence of international buyers in order to help companies access strategic jewellery markets.
VICENZAORO will be taking part at the AGS Conclave 2017
In Hollywood, from 5th to 8th April, VICENZAORO will be among the official sponsors of the prestigious annual event organized by the American Gems Society.
AGS was set up to protect the jewellery sector with ethical practices and to develop ability and know-how in the gemmology field.
The list of sponsors includes some of the most well known and respected brands in the gold and jewellery industry. Companies that are able to demonstrate their commitment to helping the community grow and devoted to protecting the jewellery sector through excellence, values and ethics.
In order to be a member, every year the partners must prove that they have the requirements to participate and thus obtain a Certificate of Suitability.
VICENZAORO pays increasing attention to ethics and sustainability along the entire jewellery supply chain, from the raw materials to the end product.
Founded in 1934 by Robert M. Shipley, the American Gem Society is a non-profit association that groups together leading jewellery companies that respect the highest professional standards and which, every year, undergo a strict certification exam.
Talento Italiano presents the new “Rugiada” collection
Swingdiamonds is the international patent devised by Antonio Sartori for his new creation where diamonds become dewdrops among light and shade
Antonio Sartori, a Milanese architect with a long family history in jewellery and the heart, soul, founder and designer of Talento Italiano, proudly presents his new magical and surprising collection: “Rugiada”, created with the international patent “swingdiamonds”. Sparkling gems, that move in a constant game of light and shade, like dew-covered leaves trembling in the wind, create an enchanting and dream-like atmosphere.
Talento Italiano, founded in 1994, experienced exceptional growth in its first few years of life due to the extraordinary design and great impact of its founder's creations.
Talento is a young company, full of energy, ideas and passion which is now playing an increasingly important role among top jewellery brands that represent Made in Italy worldwide.
The creative philosophy of Talento comes from its constant research into simplicity and the development of the structural and aesthetic qualities of the materials while continuing to observe the constant evolution in society's customs and tastes.
For Antonio Sartori, an item of jewellery should not just be an aesthetic experience but also a model of functional beauty. Shapes that adapt to the body and become part of it, expressing the feelings and sentiments of the woman who chooses to wear it.
Sartori finds inspiration in nature, in the profound culture of Italian art and in the deep emotions of a fervent and passionate man.
Talento Italiano jewellery is strictly “Made in Italy” by men and women who put their very souls into every instant and transmit their Italian culture.
Every Talento item originates from an artistic intuition, a sensation, from curiosity aroused by a detail, which, expressed firstly in a design, then takes concrete shape.
Talento “means” modern jewellery. Jewellery that lives its age and is never out of step with the times, becoming, instead, a portrait of them. Gold and silver, diamonds and natural stones, experience and experimentation, precious jewellery and fashion accessories for modern and timeless elegance. Unmistakable Italian style that is so fashionable it could become a new classic.
Design but also ethics. Pandora takes the expectations of its customers, who want to buy aesthetically beautiful jewellery that is also ethical, respectful of the environment and workers' right, very seriously.
The gravest impacts that the jewellery industry has on our planet are air and soil pollution and water consumption. Most of these problems do not come from production but rather from the supply chain. With this in mind, Pandora reaffirms its holistic vision of sustainability with the Responsible Supplier Programme, purposely created for suppliers:a code of conduct to be respected, regular checks and annual training on the theme of environment and human resource health and safety. This attention to environmental sustainability translates into real action, such as raw material recycling: 96% of the gold and 83% of the silver used in Pandora jewellery is, in fact, recycled and the aim is to reach 100% as soon as possible. “We are supporters of circular economy and we want to become even more aware,” says Claus Teilmann Petersen, the person in charge of the Danish company's Ethics and Corporate Social Responsibility. “The challenge for the future,” he continues, “is to make sure that every part of the production chain minimizes its own environmental impact by working in synergy. These ethics must be integrated every step of the way.”
Bulgari has chosen Italy
Bulgari, one of the world's top luxury bands and owned by the French multinational LVMH, has just opened its first eco-sustainable manufacturing plant, the largest jewellery factory in the whole of Europe, at Valenza Po - a historical gold district in the province of Alessandria.
14,000 square metres where 100% of the energy used comes from renewable sources, mobility is sustainable and the use of artificial light is reduced to a minimum. A model of design and environmental sustainability where 470 workers are employed (with the number expected to reach 700 by 2020) in all the production stages: from making the moulds with the ancient lost wax casting technique up to cleaning and polishing the jewellery ready to be sent to boutiques all around the world. The new site unites Bulgari's three previous jewellery production premises into one single plant, thus favouring cultural and productive integration. The site is an example of a new way to organize the work founded on “islands” - 8 at the moment but which will become 18 when the factory is in full swing - with goldsmiths, mounters and cleaners - the three basic jewellery professions. Each “island” is responsible for what it produces and guarantees continual flow.
“The challenge,” says Mauro Di Roberto, Managing Director of Bulgari's jewellery division, “is to accept a product, sealed within its own aesthetics, and invent the right road to transform the designs that come out of the Rome atelier into tangible jewellery, because the really strategic part of the new production is not only to produce but also to discover how to interpret each design in the most effective technical way.” Bulgari aims at obtaining LEED certification (leadership in Energy and Environmental Design), the most widespread sustainability rating in the world, by the end of the year. But, above all, as Bulgari's CEO Jean Christophe Babin puts it, “We are in second place in the world and we want to be first, making everything in Italy and maintaining that Made in Italy guarantee of unique quality.”
SUSTAINABILITY IS A JOURNEY NOT A DESTINATION
“Shaping a creative future”: Prada, Yale and Milan Polytechnic explore and attempt to connect creativity, sustainability and innovation using the items produced by the students as a starting point as well as one of reflection to pave the way for tomorrow.
Hosting the summit, organized by Fondazione Prada, was Carlo Mazzi, President of Prada, who opened the talks by emphasizing how «Creativity is harmony and a fundamental base for the future when focus is placed on beautiful and good and transformed into sustainability.» The main consideration is no longer fashion but awareness, an all-round vision and social inclusiveness.
Just like for Ravi Dhar, professor of management and psychology at Yale, for whom the concept of heritage should now be seen from a viewpoint that includes “How it is made and where it was made, which not only means the original factory but, above all, also knowing how to innovate according to one's own cultural heritage.” For Carlo Capasa, President of Cnmi - National Chamber of Italian Fashion - “Our new content unites well done, beautiful and sustainable in a balance between technological development and nature.” While Raffaella Cagliano, Deputy Director of the Department of Management Engineering at the Polytechnic pointed out, “Sustainability is a journey, not a destination, and achieving it includes collaborating with competitors.”