The Brooch: The Return of a Silent Icon

In recent years, the brooch has been experiencing a renewed season of prominence within the language of contemporary jewellery. In high jewellery collections as well as prêt-à-porter proposals, the brooch reasserts its expressive autonomy, breaking free from traditional conventions to embrace a more fluid, personal and narrative dimension.

Historically, it originated as a functional object, designed to fasten and protect fabric. From the Roman era to European courts, and later to the great maisons of the twentieth century, it gradually evolved into a symbol of status. Today, that same symbolic power is reinterpreted through a contemporary lens, far removed from the formal rigidity of the past.

New generations of designers approach it as a wearable micro-sculpture. Architectural volumes, three-dimensional constructions and unconventionally cut gemstones transform the brooch into a focal point, often more narrative-driven than necklaces or rings.

In terms of materials, strong experimentation emerges. Alongside gold, which remains the benchmark in high jewellery, titanium is gaining prominence. Lightweight, durable and chromatically versatile thanks to anodising processes, it allows for bold structures and daring designs while maintaining exceptional wearability. Gold itself is reinterpreted through satin, burnished or sandblasted finishes that enhance its sculptural dimension.

Coloured gemstones take centre stage. Opals, with their iridescent reflections, lend luminous depth. Tourmalines offer an extraordinary chromatic range, ideal for nuanced compositions. Garnets, from deep reds to the rarest greens, introduce intense saturation and contrast, often paired with diamonds or enamel.

From a formal perspective, trends span diverse visual languages. Abstract forms dominate with fluid lines and experimental geometries. The animal world remains central, reinterpreted in a stylised and dynamic way. The floral theme also evolves toward more artistic readings, with sculpted petals and three-dimensional compositions.

The return of the brooch is not nostalgic, but rather an expression of renewed creative freedom. From functional object to wearable artwork, it is once again reclaiming a central role in contemporary jewellery.