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Monday, 26 August 2024

Two millennia of jewellery history: the origins of the Campania Goldsmith District.

Two millennia of jewellery history: the origins of the Campania Goldsmith District.

The Campania Goldsmith District has very ancient origins, as evidenced by the precious artifacts found in the ancient city of Pompeii. However, it is in the Mercato-Pendino neighborhood that the "goldsmiths' area" arose, dedicated to commercial activities since the Middle Ages. The first master goldsmiths, who arrived with the Angevin kings, were French, and their collaboration with local artists led to the creation of the first Guild, which received official recognition from Queen Joanna I of Anjou in 1347. At the end of the seventeenth century, the Viceroy Marquis del Carpio further solidified the importance of the Borgo degli Orefici area, establishing that only within this area could the goldsmith trade be practiced. In 1808, Joachim Murat enacted the "law on the manufacture of gold and silver materials and the establishment of warranty workshops," abolishing the guild system and introducing a new hallmark to protect artisans and buyers. In 1815, with the return of the Bourbons to Naples, new workshops could be established even outside the city, fostering the spread of the new figure of the costume jeweler. Despite this and the extensive redevelopment works of the late nineteenth century, the Borgo degli Orefici maintained its identity, continuing to host artisans and goldsmith companies that are still based there today.

The craftsmanship of coral (and cameos), a hallmark of Campania's production centered in the Torre del Greco area, also boasts ancient origins. Red coral was already mentioned by Ovid and Pliny the Elder, and notable evidence dates back to the Roman era. The Vesuvian town, renowned worldwide for its artisanal craftsmanship, reached its peak in the early nineteenth century with the arrival of the Marseillaise entrepreneur Martin, who opened the "Coral Factory" in the "Royal Demesnes." However, it is worth noting that as early as 1790, the Coral Code was enacted, establishing a true regulation of coral fishing, with specific guidelines on the skills and responsibilities of fishermen.

In more recent times (in 1987), Neapolitan producers and merchants, seeking to modernize and strengthen the goldsmith and jewellery sector, planned the relocation of businesses to a new area identified in the industrial zone of Marcianise. This project became a reality in 1996 with the opening of the "Il Tarì" goldsmith center: 3,500 professional operators, over 400,000 annual visitors, 400 permanent companies, 2,500 employees, and 3 annual industry events. In 1998, the Oromare production complex was also established, bringing together small and medium-sized artisan enterprises dedicated to the production and marketing of coral, cameos, goldsmiths, and jewellery products. Currently, there are over 200 member companies (originally located in the goldsmith districts of Torre del Greco and Naples), with 80% engaged in manufacturing activities and the remaining 20% involved in wholesale distribution.

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