The Era of Semiprecious Gemstones

“My jewellery represents an idea,” Gabrielle Chanel loved to say, often pairing high-precious gemstones with less precious ones in her creations. No one broke with the conventions of traditional fine jewelry quite like she did. The new High Jewellery collection Signes & Symboles celebrates this very calling through the free pairing of gemstones from diverse “origins.” It is an approach that seems to have won over a good portion of contemporary jewelry design. Today, amethysts, aquamarines, quartz, tourmalines, and chalcedonies – to name just a few – are making their way into designers’ concepts. They are chosen for their aesthetic and sensory value, relying on the composition to enhance their character and uniqueness. For Giovanni Raspini, for instance, natural stones pair perfectly with silver, giving rise to highly sought-after creations. Take the Eden bracelet, where the intensity of quartz meets the sculptural force of the noble metal. With the San Marco Rock necklace, Maria e Luisa Jewels brings charm to rock crystal, the centerpiece of a stunning choker with irregular oval and round curb links. The damascened silver plate positioned at the base of the stone ­– visible through the crystal’s transparency – enhances its distinctiveness. Pearls and natural gemstone beads, meanwhile, take center stage in Rajola’s Shine collection, which features multi-strand necklaces and bracelets that trace sinuous spirals around the body.

Antonella Reina, Editor VO+